One Face Says It All!

Dear Lola,

As you know, I love to have the television on in my sewing room - sometimes I'm just listening, sometimes I 'm watching.  Last night, I watched an episode of I Love Lucy and I was laughing so hard I was snorting (don't tell anyone that sometimes happens when I laugh too hard).  I had been having a rough week at work, not bad, just rough.  You know the kind of week I mean - when you feel like everything you start doesn't get finished, and the "to-do" pile on your desk is getting bigger instead of smaller.  That was my week!

Coming home and heading up into the sewing space made me feel somehow better, more powerful, and certainly happier.  Even though I knew I might not finish a project, I could surround myself with things I love.  There is just something wonderful about bonding with a little fabric; organizing my Aurifil threads in a pleasing palette; hanging my rulers back in their spots; and dreaming about projects I want to create.  I was having a peaceful domestic scene.

I had a big mess on my cutting table from a project I had worked on earlier in the week, so I calmly got it organized and put away.  I felt a sense of accomplishment that I just didn't get at work this week.  Yes, it's true, sometimes I feel like I spend more time cleaning the sewing room, than actually sewing in it!  Making the room tidy made me feel powerful.

During the episode of Lucy, she was making her usual signature faces.  The expressions that Lucille Ball mastered are mind boggling!  Her comedic abilities are unparalleled. She could convey an entire story in a single look.  Her expressions could be frozen and used as writing prompts for a college creative writing course.

Fast forward to this morning.  I woke and proceeded to go through my normal morning routine - checking social media while drinking my coffee.  My friend Sue, who is not a quilter had this picture posted to her page - I laughed so hard I nearly snorted my coffee up my nose!  (I think I need to work on that snorting.)

This was an "AHA" moment. I then realized that it was up to me to practice a little creative writing of my own, and use Lucy's expressions as that writing prompt I envisioned and pretend "Lucy is a quilter".  I think I captioned her photos below pretty accurately.  I'd love to hear from  my followers to see if they agree - one face says it all! 

By the way, as I begin a project today, I'm making the same face Lucy is making in the bottom left hand corner - "See I was right to buy 3 yards".  Which face will you be making?

Hugs and stitches,
Lori

Stash building - what's your excuse?

Dear Lola,

You know I think working in a quilt shop is pure joy.  It's wonderful to be around quilters all day and I truly adore helping them select the fabrics for their projects.  Sometimes, I get to assist someone who is putting together an entire quilt and sometimes we are hunting for the perfect backing or binding.  

Every quilter seems to enjoy selecting the "ingredients" of a quilt.  Some quilters effortlessly select the ingredients while others obsess over the fabrics, battings, and threads.  I recently assisted a customer with the thread she was using for her piecing.  We spent over 30 minutes discussing the thread options and colors.  I think she went home with an excellent choice, she was still questioning herself as she left the store.  She was still concerned that she wasn't sure we got it right.

I generally try to select an Aurifil thread that is close to the colors I'm using in my quilt.  I usually settle on a neutral and I am always happy with the results.  I never obsess over the color I use for piecing, just the brand - it has to be Aurifil.  

We also get lots of customers that are "stash building".  Sometimes customers are embarrassed by this. But most customers realize we have heard this many times and they seem to know a quilt shop worker understands this phenomenon intimately!

The shop where I work carries Kaffe Fasset Fabrics and we received our shipment of the 2015 collection on Thursday.  Our customers were anxiously awaiting the unpacking and checking in of these beautiful fabrics and purchased a predetermined cut of each and every bolt.  Not surprisingly, there was no specific projects in mind.  They were just adding these fabrics to their stash - because!

When I'm on the other side of the cutting table - when I'm the customer - I know the quilt shop worker understands my need for stash building.  That being said, my non-quilter friends and family do not seem to understand the purchasing of fabrics that I have no immediate purpose in mind.  

I recently showed some new finds to a non-quilter family member and she asked, "what are you going to make with that?"  I replied, "I don't know yet, I just loved it and had to have it."  She viewed me with dismay, "you already have a lot of fabric in your sewing room, when will you find projects for all of that!"  

If you look at the conversation through the eyes of a non-quilter, it's a perfectly reasonable rationale to wonder how will the quilter ever use all of her stash.  I can see that.  However, I am a quilter and have a quilter's mind.  How can I impress on the non-quilter the importance of stash building?  Then it occurred to me - I was on a humanitarian mission.  There was some fabric trapped in the quilt shop that needed to be rescued!

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!

Tension - The Great Tug of War!

Dear Lola,

Sewing is fun.  You have heard me say it a million times.  It helps relieve the tension in my life.  That being said - every once in a while, my sewing machine tension goes wacky and I get tense just thinking about how to correct the tug of war problem of sewing machine tension! In fact, this is what my mind looks like when I start thinking about correcting tension issues:

I think most of us forget:  It's okay to touch our tension dial!  We have permission to make tension adjustments to create a balanced stitch. It's not super hard to make tension adjustments, but often we need to check the following list of things first:

Have you replaced your needle?
If this is a new sewing project, it’s always a good idea to replace the needle. It is the cheapest, simplest thing to fix, and yet the easiest thing to overlook. Did you know a damaged or bent needle effects stitch quality?  I keep a post-it note by my machine with the needle size, type and date I changed it.  Make sure your needle is both seated properly and securely screwed-in to the machine.  Don’t ask me how I know this important!

I think it’s a good idea to keep plenty of extra needles on hand!  Go ahead and stock up when they are on sale. A new needle is often the fastest way to correct the most aggravating stitch quality problems.

Have you rethreaded your sewing machine?
First things first - remember to lift the presser foot up before threading. Having the presser foot in the up position opens the machine thread tension guides.  It is important to lay the thread in between these guides when threading to achieve proper tension and make any adjustments.  If you’re not in the guides, who knows where your thread may end up!

It’s always a good idea to check to make sure the bobbin thread is not out of its tension spring in the bobbin case. Rethreading this can also seem like a miracle fix!  As we pull the thread up at the end of a seam, we can sometimes disengage the thread from the proper alignment in the bobbin area.  Make sure you are using the correct bobbins for your machine!  Size matters!

Another good thing to check is that the thread is flowing off the spool and isn't catching anywhere.  I recommend using mesh thread nets if necessary for slick threads and keeping your spool area clean of adhesives from the labels found on thread spools.  Adhesives can sometimes keep the thread from feeding into the machine at the proper rate and cause tension issues.

Are you using good quality thread?

Thread quality makes a difference.  Use the best quality, long staple thread you can.  Different spool types can also make a difference on some machines.  The size of the spool can also impact how the thread flows into the machine.  If you suspect the thread is not flowing correctly from your spool pin, try an auxiliary thread stand.  Old thread can be brittle and cause issues, so try to avoid the "heirloom" thread you find in Grandma's old sewing box.  My favorite thread is Aurifil.  I truly can't imagine sewing without it!

Are your tension disks and thread path clear of lint and debris?
Just refer to your instruction manual if you don't know where these disks are located.  I keep a soft brush and Q-tips nearby to keep these clean.   Always pull thread forward through the tension disks, never backwards.  The small amount of thread you save is not worth the headaches!

Make sure you haven’t missed any of the threading steps.  Most machines have numbered thread paths. Be sure your thread is properly threaded within all areas of the thread path.  In other words - no short cuts!

After you have checked all of the above, if your stitches still don't look the way you would like, then you can start adjusting the tension settings. 

Think of tension as a great tug of war!  Only, in this war, we want no winners between stitches!   We want a perfectly matched top and bottom team!  We want complete equality!  Our stitches will look beautiful and we win!

Find your machine's tension adjustment.
Locate the sewing machine tension gauge on your machine.  Sometimes it’s a knob, button or dial.  Computerized machines may have the tension adjustment within the touch screen. Some machines have auto-tension settings that adjust for you as you change your stitch.  Don’t be afraid of your tension dial or changing the settings.  The machine manufacturer has this feature on your machine for your use.   It’s a good idea to be familiar with your owner’s manual and the section on machine tension.  Improper machine tension adjustments fall into two categories; it is either too loose or too tight.

Use the diagram above to help you identify the symptoms and the very simple remedies:

Does your needle thread show on the backing?
This means your needle thread is too loose or your bobbin thread is too tight.

Increase your needle tension by a single digit. Test by stitching several inches on your small practice quilt sandwich. Keep increasing the tension setting until the needle thread is not visible on the backing.

Does the bobbin thread show on the top?
This means either your needle thread is too tight or your bobbin thread is too loose.

First check that your bobbin thread hasn't slipped out of its tension spring in the bobbin case.  Inspect bobbin case for wear and tear and needle strikes.  Keep bobbin area clean.

If the bobbin thread is correctly threaded through the tension spring, then decrease your needle tension by a single digit. Test by stitching several inches on your small practice quilt sandwich. Keep decreasing the tension until the needle thread is not visible on the top.

If sewing machine tension problems occur during the middle of a sewing project, review the checklist. Once you're satisfied that your sewing machine is threaded properly and your needle is not bent and in need of replacement, revisit the steps above.  

Specialty Threads Tension Considerations

Be aware there are special considerations for working with speciality threads.  These threads can be a bit challenging, but the results can be stunning!  Don't be shy, remember you have permission to adjust your settings!

How do I use threads with stretch?
Threads like monofilament, polyester, rayon or holographic threads have stretch in them. It’s easy to see this stretch for yourself. Take a length of monofilament or rayon thread and give it a pull. You can feel the stretch. Now try the same with a length of cotton thread. Don’t you feel the difference?

Threads with stretch create their own tension or resistance as they flow from the spool through all the various guides until they reach the needle. That is why if you wind a bobbin with monofilament/stretchy thread, it is recommended that you wind your bobbin at a slower speed. That way you won't stretch the thread as it's being wound onto the bobbin. This avoids thread distortion.

For my sewing machine, when stitching with monofilament thread in the needle and a 50 wt. cotton in the bobbin, I reduce my preset tension by 2 numbers. Then test on a small quilt sandwich. I like to fine-tune the adjustments until I'm satisfied that I have a balanced stitch.

How do I use decorative, heavier threads?
Many decorative threads are thicker than the 50 wt. cotton that we using for piecing our quilts (lower numbers are heavier threads). When using these thicker threads be prepared to reduce your tension. A larger, thicker thread also creates tension as it winds its way through your machine. Reduce the settings and test until you've arrived at the balanced stitch you desire.  I do not advise using your machine needle-threader with heavy weight threads or small needles. 

How do I use metallic threads?
Because of the weight and composition of metallic threads, expect to lower your upper thread tension. Test, adjust, and test again until you've achieved a balanced stitch.  Use the right needle too!

How do I make tension adjustments 
for free motion quilting?
After establishing a balanced tension for the combination of quilt sandwich and thread you've chosen, you can still have “eye-lashing” on the back of your quilt. This is almost always due to the quilter pulling the fabric too fast while going around a curve.  It’s an eye-hand coordination issue.

If there have been no other problems with your tension settings up to this point, then go back to your small practice quilt sandwich. Practice the type of stitching pattern where the “eye lashing” occurred. Slow down your hand speed.  Practice! Practice!

Is it against the law to adjust bobbin tension?
No!  While it is possible that your bobbin tension is the problem, most of the time adjustments to your needle tension will fix the issue. Quilters find bobbin adjustments most necessary when quilting with very large threads in their bobbins for bobbin work.  You may want to have a special, separate bobbin for these heavy threads in the bobbin. This will ensure you have a bobbin for regular threads and a bobbin for heavier threads.  I use a Sharpie marker to denote my bobbin case for heavy threads.  I also believe it is reasonable to expect to purchase a new bobbin case every couple years for horizontal rotary machines.  An extra bobbin case is approximately $30 -$60 depending on your make or model.

So how do I adjust the bobbin tension?
To adjust bobbin tension, refer to your sewing machine manual. Locate the bobbin case and bobbin tension screw. This is a very small screw without a lot of threads on it. If necessary, adjust by making very small-micro turns (less than a quarter, closer to an eighth) of the screw following the “right-tighty, lefty-loosey” rhyme. It maybe helpful to make a mark on the bobbin case itself where your original tension was set so that you can return to it without difficulty.  Some machines have a special ratchet tool to change the bobbin tension setting.  Always refer to your manual first.

I recommend that under normal circumstances, adjustments to the bobbin tension be your last resort, because they are so rarely needed. 

Lola, with practice and a keen eye, it's very easy to see when your sewing machine tension is balanced. The best stitch is formed within the layers of the of the fabric or quilt sandwich; no needle thread shows on the bac; and no bobbin thread shows on the top. Make balanced stitches your goal.  You can be the winner in this tug of war!

Sew Bowl

Dear Lola,

It doesn’t matter who you are rooting for in this week’s Super Bowl match-up between the Ravens and the 49ers, an event for record books is in the making – two brothers are going head to head against each other for the first time in Super Bowl history.  In fact some news media outlets have dubbed this year’s bowl – the Bro Bowl!  The Harbaugh Brothers - Jim and John will be front and center playing out the ultimate story of sibling rivalry right before the entire world!  With the Lombardi Trophy up for grabs, one brother will go home a winner and another brother may be somewhat disappointed.  Ok, maybe that last part is an understatement – but luckily in the world of sewing we can all be winners!  We are all in this together!  We can unite behind one thing – it’s not the Bro Bowl – it’s the Sew Bowl!

I’m not a huge football fan; you’d think that with a house full of men, I would have learned to love it more – oh well c’est la vie!  With that being said, I am a BIG fan of the Super Bowl though!  In fact, it’s one of my favorite days.  I get up early to make lots of appetizers, chips and dips, and set them all out on the counter.  I fill up the ice buckets and coolers, remove any fragile items from the area, and make sure there is an empty trash can near by. Then I happily sneak into my sewing room, no one looks for me, no asks for me, and I am set free to sew to my heart’s content! 

I will be gleefully ensconced in my sewing space.  I have been “training” this week almost as hard as the Giants and the Ravens – getting ready for my Sew Bowl!  I’ve organized my projects with big plans of reaching the goal line!  I’m getting my stadium of sewing ready.  I’m the home team and I totally plan to win!  I've lined up my Aurifil (+Alex Veronelli) thread, my notions, my fabrics and my patterns!  I've got a game plan and a starting line up of my own!  I plan to work on my Michael Miller Clubhouse Bonus Projects and finishing up last year’s Clubhouse Quilt.  Then I will move onto the overtime round of embroidery, sewing some shop samples and binding a finished quilt.  I plan to score on every level!

Sometimes, my local sewing retailer has a Super Bowl Sale, so if I’m in the mood – I can saunter right out of the house for some retail therapy too!  That’s an awesome plan for my half-time show!  Or maybe I can take a Craftsy class!  It’s amazing to me that on this day, I am completely invisible to my family.  The pre-game show, the offensive line-up, the commercial line-up and the real half-time show take total precedence over anything I’m doing!  Isn’t it wonderful? 

So if you haven’t already made your Sew Bowl plans – what are you waiting for?

Hugs and stitches,

Our Virtual Sewing Reality

Dear Lola,

According to Wikipedia, Virtual reality (VR) is a term that applies to computer-simulated environments that can simulate physical presence in places in the real world, as well as in imaginary worlds.

My sewing VR takes me to many blogs and social media sites like Facebook, Twitter, Etsy, Craftsy and Pinterest.  Using these resources has become an essential part of my sewing journey.  When my “inspiration cup” is feeling empty, I know what to do to fill it up!

The start to a perfect sewing day starts with my coffee mug, a computer and a mouse.  My first stop is generally my personal email.   I check for updates from my favorite bloggers.  Since I started my blog, following other blogs has become even more important to my creative process.  Google+ has helped me really keep up!

My next stop is Facebook.  I originally signed up for Facebook to keep in touch with my real family.  Now it has become much more about my Sewing and Quilting Family for sure.  I have learned how to selectively post to my Sewing Friends and this pleases my real family to no end!  They are no longer inundated with project photos and quips on trips to the fabric store.

Pinterest is next on my visit list.  This amazing site contains so much inspiration that I can time travel to the future – what I mean is – I can sit in front of the computer and before I know it – I have travelled 2 hours into the future!  How do they do it?  This site is awesome for bookmarking my favorite blogs and projects.  I love knowing how to find my “web trail”!  No more saying to myself, “now where was that site with the cute apron project or where is that fabulous neckline tutorial?”  I can find what I am looking for in a jiffy!  I have installed the “Pin It” command on my tool bar and use it throughout the day!  I love all the great people I follow on Pinterest too!

No day would be complete without a visit to Craftsy.  Since I signed up, this site has continued to improve, amaze and inspire.  Now they have added the ability to post your projects and follow others.  Woohoo!  All I can say is that they continue to nail it!  I love the deals they offer, the classes are absolutely sublime, and the educators are top-notch, world-class and fantastically inspirational.  Seeing all the great projects and workshops is like growing creative wings!  I feel like I can fly just about anywhere!

Then there are my favorite virtual friends.  These zany, colorful, creative people shape my day and many of them I have never met!  I look to their blogs, Facebook pages and websites for my daily dose of over the top happiness.  Their vision of the world is artistic and humorous.  They use their wit, charm and sense of whimsy to make the world a more creative and fun place. 

My favorites are: 

1.  Alex Veronelli of Aurifil.  I follow him on Facebook, Twitter and Google+.  His sense of humor is wicked.  I have never met him- but I consider myself an “Alex Groupie”!  He is my go to guy for a daily humor injection!  By the way – Aurifil thread is the best!  If you haven’t tried it – you are missing out!  The thread is just like Alex – sexy and colorful!  I have a crush on both!  Can I say that?

2. Pepper Cory, Quiltmaker and Author.  Pepper is free-spirited and dynamic.  I first became acquainted with Pepper on Craftsy and then was lucky enough to meet her in person at a Quilt Alliance event.  I love her posts about her cats (even though I am a dog person) and her love of quilting. Her posts are as scrappy as her quilts and that’s a good thing!  She is especially passionate about Vintage and Antique Quilts and has opened a whole new world to me. 

3.  Tula Pink, Fabric Designer, Author and Bernina Ambassador – Since I first began sewing I have adored Tula’s fabrics.  One of my first garment sewing projects was made with Tula’s fabric.  To this day, it is my favorite skirt!  Tula has a unique sewing voice.  Her creative vision is full of whimsy.  Before I met her at a Sewing Expo, I knew she was dynamic.  In person, she is even more WOW!  Her point of view is fresh and fun and flirty.  Following her blog, Twitter and Facebook keeps me in the “Tula Universe” which is a pretty cool place to be!

4.  Lola Jenkins, Prize-winning Art Quilter and Craftsy Educator – I stumbled across Lola (doesn’t she have a great name?) through Craftsy.  I signed up for her Thread Art Class.  Just 5 minutes into the class, I knew I loved this lady.  Her story of how she came into Art Quilting is “sew” inspirational.  What she has accomplished is incredible and her work is downright stunning!  We have since become Facebook friends and I hope to meet her in person some day.

5.  Meg Cox, Author, Board Member Quilt Alliance – Meg’s book, The Quilter’sCatalog, was the first book I purchased when I began my sewing journey 5 years ago!  Can I say I love this book?  It’s an amazing reference for someone just beginning to navigate their way through the quilting/sewing universe.  Meg is thoughtful and witty writer.  I follow her posts on her blog and Facebook. She does great things for the Quilt Alliance.  I adore her other book, FamilyTraditions and I hope to meet her some day soon too.

6. Anthony Jones, Quiltmaker – Anthony is a beloved Facebook and Pinterest friend.  Ironically, Anthony lives in Clearwater, Florida – my old hometown.  I never knew him when I was living there – oh how I wish I had!  I love his posts on just about everything.  He has a highly-evolved sense of humor and just seems like an all around cool guy!  Some days, Anthony’s posts can just make me laugh out loud and make my day!

7. Pat Sloan, Creative Blogger and Virtual Radio Host – Pat is a Virtual Pioneer with her Creative Talk Network.  I visit her Blog and her site regularly for all the happenings in the quilting and sewing world.  She has great forums and events listed on her site.  Her Facebook posts are fun and full of creative spirit.

The Internet is such an amazing tool.  It allows me to make friends with an entire circle of creative people that I might never have known otherwise.  They are physically present in my life in a way that impacts my sewing journey more than the people who actually live in my home.  These creative souls inspire.  Modern times have allowed us to create the spirit of the French Art Salon - a free exhibition and exchange of artistic ideas.

Lola, Virtual Reality is a creative, artistic, safe, inspiring, supportive, loving and funny place to be!

Hugs and stitches, 

Lori